Saturday 8 September 2012

The Ruins of Golkonda


Hyderabad is a bustling city located in the southern part of India. It is where the echoes of the past still make its presence felt as modern buildings dot the skyline with towering apartment complexes, malls and multiplexes. However, west of Hyderabad approximately 11 km away lies ruins of the ancient city of Golkonda  with stoned walls and impressive citadels. Archaeologists believe that the Kingdom of Golkonda dates as far back as the Chalukya dynasty in 731 AD making it one of the oldest surviving historical sites in Hyderabad.

However, the foundation of the famous Golkonda fort itself was not constructed until the 13th century under the Kakatiya dynasty sometime in 1143. The name ‘Golla conda’ itself which literally means ‘Shephard Hill’ in telugu language with an interesting legend behind it. The story goes that a mud fort was built by the Kakatiya King after an idol was discovered by a shepherd boy.  The Kakatiya dynasty ended with the rise of the Bahmani Sultans. But it was only around the 16th century that Golkonda would rise to prominence as the seat of the Qutb Shahi dynasty until its decline in 1590. During which the simple mud walls would be transformed into a formidable granite fortress.  But then in 1687, the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb laid seize to the fort for nine months before being able to march through its strong walls.

The beauty of Golkonda lies in its intricate planning and architectural marvel beaming even through its ruins. The Golkonda complex is divided into four well-defined forts with several semicircular bastions along the 10 km outer wall. Some of these bastions still have mounted canons overlooking the landscape that it once protected from invading troops. The ruggedness of the structure is heightened by drawbridges and eight large gateways with sharp iron spikes. A few feet away from the entrance of the gate there are large erected walls that would have acted as a shield in a battle preventing marching elephants and armies to infiltrate the fortress with ease.

The main entrance lies on the Eastern side at Bala Hissar Gate with its intricate ornamentation blending both Hindu – Muslim architecture. The "Fateh Darwaza" (Victory Gate) is where the armies of Emperor Aurangzeb marched triumphantly after the fall of the Shahi dynasty. One of the most interesting aspects of the gate is its finely tuned acoustics. As you clap your hands at the entrance under the dome, the sound echoes roughly a kilometre out at the Bala Hisar gate. But it was an effective warning mechanism used to alert an impending attack.

The austere exterior is further complemented by the more architecturally elaborate royal apartments & halls, tombs of the Qutub Shahi Sultans, gardens, temples and mosques located in and around Golkonda Fort. One such monument is the Toli Masjid built in 1671 built by the royal architect Mir Musa Khan Mahaldar and about 2km away at Karwan. The fort also contained a resourceful water supply system and detailed ventilation adding a unique charm to this historical site.  Also, the diamond mines of Golkonda were as famous as the fort itself with the 185 carats Darya-e Nur diamond (Sea of light), the Hope diamond and Kohinoor once kept in its vault chambers.

Through time, the fort has witnessed the rise and fall of kingdoms and fierce battles across its fields. Once the seat of power, its own fate fallen with the diktats of time. In the remnants of broken walls and desolate silence of history, there is much to discover at Golkonda.

Image ©: Sreedhar Vedlapati
 

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